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Ambre Muscadin


Ambre Muscadin is about the amber and musk notes, as the name suggests - Muscadin translates from French as “wearing musk perfume” - but as soon as this fragrance touches my skin, I know it’s about much more. 

Ambre Muscadin is rumoured to be by Mona di Orio, and just like Patchouly Boheme which she also created, it's a chameleon, filled with surprises. The moment the juice hits my skin, there’s a huge burst of smoky woods. I wasn’t expecting that! Resinous cedarwood, green vetiver, earthy violet, and musk, merge into an almost feral accord, which is soon enveloped in the honeyed sweetness of vanilla absolute and white honey. Within minutes, the sweetness lifts the animalic musks, and by the time we move into the heart, Ambre Muscadin into transformed into an intoxicating and sensuous cloud of powdery woods and dark delicious musky vanilla. Soft suede notes slowly appear, making the core of Ambre Muscadin a sweet and sexy fantasy.

In the long dry-down, Atlas cedar keeps the sweetness at bay, benzoin adds more layers of smoky intrigue, and the musk and vanilla notes deepen into a complex almost-animalic-but-not-quite accord that shimmers on my skin for hours. The waft is perfection, sweet but not cloying, tenacious but quiet, comforting but still conveying a provocative frisson every time my nose meets my wrists.

Ambre Muscadin is big-boned and bold at the beginning, with a flamboyance that matches marvelous classics such as Shalimar or Habanita. All of the LM Parfums perfumes that I’ve sniffed seem to follow in the tradition of these classics, they all seem to have a nostalgic quality, but they’re clearly rooted in the here and now, definitely created to ignite our supposedly more evolved 21st century imaginations.

Ambre Muscadin likely contains the same notes as many other amber perfumes that precede it but Mona di Orio and Laurent Mazzone made it their story, infusing their creative vision of light vs. dark, strong vs. fragile, sweet vs. sour, simple vs. complex into its core. Ambre Muscadin is an intelligent paradoxical amber which solves the gender issue, telling a different story on male vs. female skin. It’s an amber for everyone.

Notes: Mount Atlas cedar, vetiver Java, violet, Madagascar vanilla absolute, white honey, Siam benzoin, amber, and musk.

Type: EdP

Parfumeur: Mona di Orio (maybe)


Price: $5.00