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Angel Muse


Angel Muse from 2016 has three main accords and reveals itself in nuanced layers, top through bottom. In the first minute, there is a tangy explosion of citrus notes, orange over grapefruit amplified by the zest of their bitter peel. Then a tart and juicy sweetness of mostly orange, backed up by the unmistakable Angel patchouli/dark chocolate accord reminds me of a box of handmade chocolates. The citrus notes slowly drift into more fruitiness with notes of raspberry and vanilla, the chocolate moves from dark to creamy milk, and vetiver joins with soft patchouli. The opening accord drifts into the heart with the vetiver adding a fuzzy dry quality as the second main accord emerges.

And it is Hazelnut Cream.  A silky smooth mousse of milk chocolate and toasted hazelnuts, sweetened with fruits and vanilla. Sweet but not sugary, with a hint of bitter green and dry cocoa – the vetiver again adding an intriguing contrast. This is deliciously addictive. 

Muse settles into a warm hum as it dries down into the base. The scent feels smooth, cozy and comforting from hazelnut and dark vanilla, the sweetness tempered by dry spicy facets of vetiver and cocoa, and the signature Angel patchouli waft, which is soft and enveloping in Muse. It’s creamy and luscious. The effect is magnetic.

The original Angel Eau de Parfum from 1992 is described on the Mugler website as being inspired by the duality in all women – “part childlike innocence, part sophistication and glamour”. That duality is obvious right from the first sniffs, and is part of its weirdness and its appeal. Angel is loud and soft, bright and dark, sweet and sour, light and heavy, weird and comforting, feminine and masculine. It’s loaded with contrasts and opposites. It makes a big statement.

Angel Muse has the Angel DNA but is quite different from the original Angel. The shape of their heavy clear glass flacons are a big clue to the difference. Angel is an angled spiky star, tinted cool blue from the juice inside, beautiful to look at but awkward to hold. Angel Muse is a smooth oval pebble, tinted a warm amber colour, a smooth sleek shape that fits easily into the palm. Angel Muse is Angel thirty years later, the sharp edges removed, the weirdness dialed down, the best parts refined, the duality merged into a modern, perfectly balanced scent which wears on my skin like it was made for me. Warm, feminine, but with a complex depth and a lovely controlled waft, Angel Muse has just enough weirdness to make me make me love it. I’m addicted.


Notes: Grapefruit, Pink Berries, Hazelnut Cream Accord, Cocoa Powder, Vetiver, Patchouli, Vanilla  

Type: EdP

Parfumeur: Quentin Bisch

Price: $5.00