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Bogue MEM, by independent perfumer Antonio Gardoni, is a new fragrance that does something to lavender that you could never imagine, until  you smell it. Take a startlingly fresh, pure, herbal, sun-warmed aromatic lavender blossom, rub it between your fingers which have your salty sweat scent, then add the smell of moist loamy roots just pulled from the earth. That’s Bogue MEM in the first moments. Inhale deeply because it’s going to change quickly, the earthiness giving way to the caramel-infused smoky boozy jammy honeyed sweetness of tobacco and lavender, which is so delicious I almost want to lick my hand.

Then wait. Just a bit. Because Bogue MEM enters an alternate universe, and its floral, but not traditional floral. This is a white or pale yellow universe, ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, geranium, with hints of rubber and wax and mint over a fermented fizziness in the heart, voluptuous notes that transform into an abstract multi-layered heart when bedded down with the lavender and tobacco accord. It’s richly deeply floral without being flowery, and the single word that comes to mind is “beautiful”.

And then the dry-down. Mr Gardoni has more to reveal. He says on his website that his scents are “rooms to discover with their mood, texture, light and color.” In the base the light dims, the landscape changes to dark woods. Rosewood, sandalwood, cedar, benzoin, smooth satiny woodnotes lift up the floral heart, deepening the accord, and then from shadows the animalic notes, ambergris, civet, musk, castoreum, reveal themselves. Bogue MEM becomes darker, more complex. The heart beats faster, the pulse races – there’s something happening here that’s real and exciting and far beyond the realm of ordinary fragrance.

The animalic notes concentrate Bogue MEM so that it vibrates with life, it shines from within. The long dry-down, still with the faint waft of pale purple herbal lavender, is warm, inviting, complex and compelling, satisfying, at times masculine, at times feminine, deeply sensual, and always and endlessly, fascinating. The notes blend seamlessly into a world of pleasure.


Notes: petitgrain, mandarin, grapefruit, 4 different types of lavender, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, white champaca, jasmine grandiflorum, rose damascena, bourbon geranium, vanilla, peppermint, laurel, Siam benzoin, rosewood, sandalwood (santalum album), Himalayan cedarwood, labdanum, aldehydes, ethyl maltol, ambergris, musk, castoreum, civet, amber

Type: EdP

Parfumeur: Antonio Gardoni

Price: $6.00