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Launched in 2013 by Serge Lutens, La Vierge De Fer affected me in a deep and compelling way the first time I smelled it and I was reminded of a Lutens quote: “A perfume belongs to our heart as well as our skin”. The simple, uncomplicated beauty of this fragrance has taken up residence in my heart.

Like some of his other fragrances, Lutens doesn’t give out the notes for La Vierge De Fer. And, like most of the descriptions of his perfumes, the marketing materials obfuscate more than they educate, forcing the wearer to experience the fragrance for themselves and without prejudice, so I can only relate my personal experience of it.

On me, La Vierge De Fer opens with jasmine, sweet, floral, indolic and softer than I expect from a Lutens fragrance. There’s a note of green here too, that adds a brightness to the opening. A fizziness from aldehydes adds a metallic shimmer to the creamy jasmine that slyly weaves in and out of the fragrance creating a sort of shadow game. After a while I smell lily – the central character. First, lily of the valley, muguet, its distinctive floral scent, clean and bright, extends the opening with its jasmine-like facets. I also smell hints of pollen and the waxy petals of the Calla lily. Over time, it gets softly spicy and then gently warmed by musk.

La Vierge De Fer has no dark side, no dirtiness to it, no twists, turns or surprises. Nor is it loud, heavy or opulent, which doesn’t mean it lacks depth or interest. Instead, it dries down to a clean, clear skin scent without a trace of sadness or bitterness.

I love lilies – they‘re what drew me to try La Vierge De Fer in the first place and the lilies here reach right into my heart with their quiet, gentle beauty and determined presence that won’t be denied.
I can’t tell you whether I ‘got’ what Lutens intended me to ‘get’ when he created La Vierge De Fer but if a perfume belongs to our heart as well as our skin, then I am very content to wear my heart on my wrist.

Notes: Jasmine, Aldehydes, Lilly of the valley, Cala lily, musk

Type: EdP

Parfumeurs: Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake

Price: $6.00