What a stunning scent! First off I get dry, powdery iris, faintly sweet like the petals, peppered with a touch of spicy clove from the violet, becoming rich and buttery as the powder sensation develops into a purple haze of these two unique floral notes. No citrus to be found in this chypre, but there is a hint of raw green funk from the patchouli which makes it sooo interesting.
Soft almondy heliotrope moves into the mix, which tones down the earthy green and amps up the feminine feeling, and the scent starts to feel like it will swerve into a sweet floral when the darker notes gather momentum and move into the centre.
Earthy patchouli notes at first, vegetal and erotic, wrap around fruity ripe purple plums, their sweetness forming an accord with the patchouli that has nuances of woods and tobacco. Finally, I seem to detect vanilla mixed with the almond heliotrope and the powdery florals.
This Grande Dame is a contemporary Femme Fatale, soft, feminine, voluptuous on the outside, but tough in her core. She lures you in and then entertains you a fascinating play between light and dark, refined and raw, floral and fruity, sweet and earthy, all on her own terms.
It is extraordinary, and already has become one of my few beloved scents, Mon Parfum Chéri.
Notes: violet, plum, Indonesian patchouli, iris and heliotropine
Parfumeurs: Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen