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Nose-to-Nose – Rose is back - September 11, 2013

Photo - Wikipedia - Blue rose (dyed white rose) - by Noumenon

Kay:    She’s coming back!

Gwen: Who’s coming back?

Kay:    Rose – the rose note. I’ve been reading the latest reviews on my favourite blogs and it seems that many of the new scents are featuring rose.

Gwen: As far as I’m concerned, she never left.

Kay:    Well, you are the Queen of Roses – you just wrote about Lady Vengeance from Juliette Has a Gun, and you own over 2 million rose perfumes.

Gwen: 2.5 million, actually. You can never have too much of a good thing, I say – and a rose is a VERY good thing, especially in perfumes.

Kay:  So many people miss out on the fabulous rose frags, because of misguided notions about little old ladies……you know, that either faded and dying, or mega-power rose floral waft that your old auntie with the bad breath used to wear.

Gwen: How’d you know I had an aunt like that?

Kay:  We ALL had an aunt like that! Mine had amazing long white whiskers on her chin, too.

Gwen: But my rose frags sure don’t smell like her! They’re pale and romantic, or gorgeous and glamorous, or fiery and spicy, or cool and sophisticated, or sensuous and seductive. I love ‘em all!

Kay:    C’mon, you’ve got to have a few faves!

Gwen: Well, I do go on rose jags. And when I do, for example at this time of year, I love wearing Incense Rosé from Tauer Perfumes. The rose, the smoky incense, that soft, sweet rose heart is so perfect – warmed by spicy cardamom, and myrhh, mixed with cedar and vetiver – it’s never too sweet. The gorgeous accord of rose and incense notes is divinely balanced, never dark or heavy, but full of aromatic richness....sigh.

And another on my faves list is Rose d’Amour. No rose list would be complete without something from Les Parfums de Rosine, the little French company in the Palais Royale that makes only rose-based fragrances. It’s heart is a velvet rose, lying on a bed of earthy iris, exotic jasmine and narcissus, which makes the rose smell slightly like urine, to my nose.

Kay: Urine!

Gwen: Yup. The effect is like roses surrounded by garden green – green leaves, stems, with decomposing notes from the indolic white flowers – it’s amazing. It mixes with oakmoss as it dries down, but then the base notes, spicy nutmeg and pepper, warm up the green florals, with the added touch of a smoky vetiver. What makes Rose d’Amour so special is that it has a glamourous vintage feel, it’s made for a night on the town, and it never drifts near the dreaded “old-lady” territory.

Kay: Wow! I wanna sniff that one. My current rose infatuation is with two cool scents, from two cool niche perfumers, James Heeley and Maria Candida Gentile Hippie Rose and Sideris. These are rose frags that are sophisticated and sexy, in a downtown Laboutin kinda way.

Gwen: Liking them already! Continue…

Kay: Well, Hippie Rose is a young rose, mixed with a green patchouli, bergamot, vetiver, and oak moss so that it has an earthy damp smell at first, which then starts to sweeten …but only slightly. The patchouli lends an herbal undertone that keeps Hippie Rose light and airy right to the end. But the rose has a spicy edge and when the musk, amber and smoky incense arrive in the drydown, the result is tantalizing. Hippie Rose has Heeley’s signature light sillage but it also has an intensity that has a powerful “come hither” factor. I think it's the perfect rose frag for perfumistas who don’t wanna smell like their mothers, but who also don’t wanna smell like their friends, either.

Gwen: Where’s the Hippie part?

Kay: There’s no sweet powdery patchouli hippie flower child in this frag.  I think Heeley’s just messin’ with us. He should have called it Hip Rose.

Gwen: What about Sideris?

Kay: Sideris is darker and more seductive. It opens with notes of frankincense, labdanum (rock rose), myrtle and saffron mixed with resin, herbs and spice. For the first five minutes, this dark accord is balanced and  fascinatingly rich but it’s not ever heavy or powdery, then the rose comes out of the shadows. This rose is vibrant and spicy, with honey and resins – a real red, ripe rose, so full and rich, like bright red Dior lipstick. In the dry-down, incense, sandalwood, myrrh and benzoin, form a creamy- ambery-woody accord with hints of smoke, a perfect background for the rose. Sideris has a lush feminine beauty with great warmth, but not a hint of vintage heaviness. It’s a modern seductive scent,done by a brilliant perfumer, and with just the right amount of flesh on its bones.

Gwen: I’m glad rose is back. Now maybe she’ll get the recognition she richly deserves. After all, she's the floral backbone of so so SO many frags, from the great classics to the uber-hot scents we're hearing about this Fall season!

Kay: Maybe our “Rose is Back” decant pack will help spread the word...I mean, the scent!

 

“Rose is Back” Decant Pack – four “modern rose” perfumes in .7ml decants for $14.00 + shipping

 

Incense Rosé  Tauer Perfumes - Floral Woody - The gorgeous accord of rose and incense notes is divinely balanced, never dark or heavy, but full of aromatic richness....sigh.

Rose d’Amour Les Parfums de Rosine - Floral Fresh - What makes Rose d’Amour so special is that it has a glamourous vintage feel, it’s made for a night on the town, and it never drifts near the dreaded “old-lady” territory.

Hippie Rose Heeley - Chypre Floral - Hippie Rose has a powerful “come hither” factor. So perfect for young perfumistas who don’t wanna smell like their mothers, but also don’t wanna smell like their friends.

SiderisMaria Candida Gentile - Floral woody - Sideris has a lush feminine beauty with great warmth, but not a hint of vintage heaviness. It’s a modern seductress with just the right amount of flesh on her bones.