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OUD Silk Mood


Francis Kurkdjian released his fragrance named OUD in 2012, one of the first from the luxury niche brands that focused on this odd note that is so foreign to Western noses.

Medicinal, damp, mushroomy, musty, almost sour, oud is distilled from the sap of agarwood trees infected with a specific fungus. It has been used for centuries in Middle Eastern perfumes, often paired with sweet floral notes in dense heavy oil-based attars (perfumes). 

On his website, he says: 

“Oud is the ambergris of the 21stcentury – animalic, mysterious, and yet vegetal… I chose a protected grade of Laotian oud that met my requirements and aesthetic criteria: a fruity facet reminiscent of peach, a saffron accent, a dry, waxy side, the famous animal note, and potency. Because oud wood resonates with intense, opulent flowers, not with the transparency of faint, fleeting accords. Intoxicating jasmine and sensuous rose above all are its preferred flowers…”

Kurkdjian’s OUD is different. Using the oud sourced from Laos, his OUD fragrance seemed to be lit from within, almost transparent, and it was an immediate success.

Following on this success, in 2013 he introduced the OUD Moods Collection, three fragrances inspired by the feel of different fabrics, Velvet, Cashmere, and Silk. OUD Silk Mood is the classic combination of oud and rose, and it is gorgeous. In the extrait de parfum version, the rose note is up front from the first whiff, cool and peppery-green with a fruity apple-sweetness from blue chamomile, which becomes more radiant as it warms on my skin, but this Bulgarian rose absolute is balanced by warm earthy oud as it moves into the heart. Before Silk Mood becomes overwhelmed by the rose/oud accord, dry green-grassy papyrus gives it wings, so that as the scent dries down it seems to float above rather than settle firmly on my skin. The sensation is absolutely like the touch of featherweight silk, delicate and airy. 

I love strange notes in perfumes, which is why I like oud fragrances. One of my favourites is Black Aoud by Montale – oud, rose, leather – dark and Gothy, a fragrance which definitely demands the right occasion to work its magic. OUD Silk Mood by Francis Kurkdjian is an oud that draws outside the lines and brings oud into the light, revealing new facets of this ancient note. The extrait version, which I own, has a soft waft and lasts on my skin for eight to ten hours, and I love every minute of it. 

OUD Silk Mood is a whole new oud experience. And I think guys should wear it, too.


Notes: Bulgarian rose absolute, Laotian oud, blue Moroccan chamomile, green papyrus.

Type: extrait de parfum

Parfumeur: Francis Kurkdjian

Price: $6.00