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Patchouli 24

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Patchouli 24 was launched in 2016 by Le Labo, a New York based niche perfume house founded in the same year by Eddie Roschi and Fabrice Penot. “Le Labo” translates into English as "the laboratory" and that’s the esthetic of the brand.
The name and number of all Le Labo fragrances refer to the ingredient with the highest concentration – in this case patchouli - which means that the name of the fragrance might bear little resemblance to what the fragrance smells like. The number refers to the number of ingredients in the fragrance, so Patchouli 24 has 24 ingredients.

I have been rolled back on my heels by many a patchouli fragrance but Patchouli 24 is like a lover that won’t be denied.

It opens with a heady floral accord that yields quickly to the smell of smoke from birch tar. That swirling smoke is captivating and evocative. It’s the smoke from smoldering embers – not a camp fire as in Lonestar Memories, and it lingers and lingers, the way smoke lingers on clothes for days. On me the patchouli is hanging back, but I feel it there, dark and a little sweet.  Then comes the irresistible smell of worn leather and I suddenly feel like I’m sitting in an old leather armchair by a fire in a library. Oh, baby, keep pulling me in! And it does when a whiff of balsam breaks through the smokiness. Then a note of creamy, custardy vanilla rises up from my skin and balances the smoke, the leather and the darkness.

The drydown on me has a little smokiness, but it really is about that vanilla/patchouli accord. The patchouli here is smooth and some of the characteristics that it’s known (and loved for) the dirtiness, the rootiness and the earthiness, don’t stand out here. This is patchouli reimagined by the master of smoke, Annick Ménardo.

Notes: patchouli, birch tar, styrax, vanilla

Type: EdP

Parfumuer: Annick Ménardo.

Price: $8.00