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Perle de Mousse – Une parure secrète, a secret jewel – April 11, 2014 New Fragrance Listing

Photo - cafleurebon

A lovely little bottle has been waiting for me for quite some time. Eight months to be exact. My private whispers to the weather gods seem to have worked - the heavens have conspired, Spring is here in full force, and it’s finally the perfect day to tell you about Perle de Mousse.

Perle de Mousse is one of three fragrances launched by Paris jeweler, Ann Gérard, in 2012. A talented artist who works with a spare, elegant, design style, she creates jewellery pieces mostly for women, precious and semi-precious stones in unusual settings of gold platinum and silver – see her work here. She is known for her “unique moonstone creations. She seems to enjoy setting off the shiny qualities of things like pearls, opals, and moonstones with traditional cut stones. The juxtaposition of point brilliance and surface sheen make for a fabulous visual.”

Ann Gérard regards perfume as “ the most mysterious of jewels, It speaks to us silently… a secret adornment”, an invisible mirror of our emotions that, like jewellery, we also wear on our skin. Ms. Gérard’s long-time friend, Bertrand Duchaufour, was a natural choice to create the first Ann Gérard fragrances, and I think the result of their artistic collaboration is spectacular.

Cuir de Nacres, first released in 2010 as Pleine Lune (Full Moon) is a soft shimmery white iris with a sueded leather twist; Ciel d’Opales, is a radiant mix featuring bitter green galbanum and soft sweet honeyed linden, and Perle de Mousse, my favourite of the three, is a green mossy floral with a soft creamy white muguet (lily-of-the-valley) in its heart. The operative word for all three, if you haven’t noticed is soft. These are not in-your-face fragrance firecrackers that will sputter and die, these are classic contemporary scents that will endure.

Perle de Mousse means “pearl of moss”, so my mind’s eye pictures a shiny shimmery opalescent pearl, and my mind’s nose smells a green mossy earthy garden. It’s described as a green floral chypre so I’m expecting a strong blast from the top-notes when I put my nose to the first spritz, since most chypre fragrances are known for their top-heavy power. And I’m not disappointed, this is definitely a chypre in the classic style, but the fizzy aldehydes and green notes are noticeably lighter and slightly sweeter than, say, Ma Griffe or Chypre Palatin, which is also by Duchaufour.

Perle de Mousse is noticeably more delicate since the sweeter florals quickly join the top notes, which tempers the bitter resinous galbanum and green mandarin, and there is also a softer herbal component from the ivy and sweet hawthorn.

Into the heart the white florals mix into their own sweet delicate bouquet: lily–of-the-valley with its green earthy sweetness, the lush waxy gardenia, the sweet creamy rot of tuberose, but all through a filter so that the accord is gauzy and tender.  With spicy rose, sweet heady jasmine and a hint of clove the floral accord expands and deepens, and the sweetness softens as the mousse-y note develops. Green earthy, soft dry mossy, the lentiscus absolute starts to do its work, keeping Perle de Mousse in a tender green zone.

After about an hour, Perle de Mousse softens yet again as amber and vanilla do their magic and smooth out any remaining hard edges, making the sillage gentle and restrained. With the addition of musk, I pick up a lovely salty sensation under the soft green-edged florals, which makes me go ahhh….

Perle de Mousse is modern yet classic, a perfect adornment for a spring day, a green gem which nestles invisibly and silently on skin. Une parure secrète, just like the jeweler ordered.

Perle de Mousse is listed in our Decant Store . Decants are $5.00 for 1 ml.