Created in 2011, Réglisse Noire is the first fragrance put out by 1000 Flowers, the indie niche line of Canadian perfumer Jessica Buchanan.
Born into a family of painters, potters and weavers in Vanderhoof British Columbia, she spent her childhood on Salt Spring Island and on ranches in the Kootenays. She chose perfume as her artistic medium and moved to Grasse in 2007 to study at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery, interning at Robertet and Mane.
Réglisse Noire opens with spicy, pungent white pepper which is soon joined by an aquatic ozone note. It is the interplay between these two opposites that makes this opening so unique and reveals Ms. Buchanan’s perfume-making chops! Mint and shiso leaf follow giving a fresh herbal backdrop to the heart – oh, the heart! First, star anise appears, spicy and gently anise-y from anethole, and as it blooms from the heat of your skin, licorice appears, amping up the anethole and deepening it – think sambuca, pastis, or absinthe. A note of ginger emerges, warming things up and adding a zingy freshness that prevents Réglisse Noire from getting too sweet or too cloying. Allspice is here too and adds more spicy warmth while cocoa gives it a deep, dark fullness and a slight bitterness too. It all rests on a base of vetiver, cedarwood and vanilla, softened by musk creating a drydown that is like no other.
In many ways, Réglisse Noire is a well-crafted play of opposites – light and deep, sweet and bitter, cool and warm – but I’m not inclined to overthink it, I just want to enjoy it.
This is a softly sexy scent that is totally unique from a new talent and one you don’t want to miss!
Notes: white pepper, ozone, mint, shiso leaf, star anise, ginger, licorice, cocoa, allspice, vetiver, cedarwood, vanilla, musk
Parfumeur: Jessica Buchanan