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M.Micallef Patchouli

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There's something about patchouli...
M. Micallef Patchouli, is from the chic niche brand of the same name, the one with the fabulous jeweled bottles. Started in 1997 by Martine Micallef and her husband, Geoffrey Neumann, the perfumes in their unique line are created by nose Jean-Claude Astier, in partnership with her husband, and the distinctive bottles are designed by Martine. Patchouli, an EdP which was launched in 2006, is I think, one of their best.
Right out of the bottle I can smell the patchouli note but it remains under a lovely light earthy-green layer of violet leaf and orris, which begins to sweeten immediately with the soft scent of heliotrope. 
As it dries down into the heart, the herbal aspect of patchouli strengthens and Patchouli takes on a leathery vibe, but this is a soft supple sueded leather rather than a tanned skin, and it smells elegantly rich and luxurious. Cedarwood and balsam make it even richer, and as the heart expands, the vanilla and labdanum notes appear, and M. Micallef Patchouli starts to feel almost gourmand. It is now sweet and boozy with a woody chocolate note, but soon the magical earthiness of the patchouli reins in the sweetness, revealing more of the darkly luscious vanilla. In the final dry-down, warm vanilla and velvety musk, with its salty-skin overtones, quietly shift the scent into heart-fluttering sensuous aphrodisiac territory, so smooth and langourous. Mmmmm.
M. Micallef Patchouli is patchouli all the way through, but this vision of patchouli has removed the dark rough edges that keep many from loving this special note. M.Micallef's vision of patchouli with violet and vanilla is sleek and sophisticated, smooth, curvy, and very feminine.
Notes: violet leaves, orris, heliotrope, patchouli, vetiver, cedarwood, leather, balsam tolu, benzoin, cistus, vanilla
Type: EdP
Parfumeur: Jean-Claude Astier

Price: $5.00