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Note Series #19 – JASMINE - May 18, 2016

jasminum sambac - wikipedia


The jasmine note in perfumery is at the top of the perfumer’s floral palette, along with rose - they are the King and Queen of the perfume world.  Jasmine is a night-blooming flower, and its natural sweetness is narcotic because of indoles, aromatic compounds which have a dense stinky aspect, which give the pretty five-petaled white blossoms a powerful animalic quality. The scent of jasmine can carry for miles in the air.

There are several species of the jasmine shrub but the two used in perfume are Jasminum sambac from South-east Asia, fresh-floral and energizing, and Jasminum grandiflorum, known as French jasmine, which has an incredibly intense aroma. Both are very expensive to produce, it requires 8,000 hand- picked blossoms to produce 1 gram (about 1 ml.) of Jasmine Absolute for use in perfumes.

Jasmine is described as smelling of bananas and apricot jam but also of horse sweat and mothballs. One moment you notice the springlike freshness of white petals and the next you’re seduced by its hot animalic breath. Even a hint of jasmine essence can lend a seductive, voluptuous layer…” (Sources: Fragrantica and Wikipedia)

Note Series #19 – JASMINE

4 -1ml. decants for $13.00, regular $17.00

LUST by Lush Gorilla Perfumes – deeply indolic and carnal and irresistible

From the website: “Lust is a heady mash-up of rich florals and a warm, woody base that lasts on the skin for hours and hours. LUSH perfume and co-founder Mark [Constantine] has been working on jasmine fragrances for years, and this time he’s gone all the way. Unabashedly sexy, Lust stirs an inexplicable carnal yearning. Resistance is futile.”

Lust seems to hold nothing back, it hides nothing, has no artifice, it feels honest, intimate, and deeply deeply sensual. Sexy describes it, but doesn’t convey the addictive power of this fragrance. Lust is a perfect name for it but there’s another four-letter word that describes it to perfection. Love. 

HOW YOU LOVE by Jasmin Sarai – pure and tender and soothing

Dana El Masri is twenty-eight years old, the founder and sole creative force behind Jazmin Sarai, a small indie brand based in Montreal with the concept of matching music with scent. Sade’s “It’s Only Love That Gets You Through” from 2000 was reimagined in How You Love, a fragrance tuned to the tender lyrics and range of Sade’s contemporary jazz voice. Starting with a soothing swirl of green cardamom and sun-warmed grapefruit, How You Love soon leads into velvety rose and sensuous jasmine florals, beautifully framed by the herbal sweet citrus. The basenotes are a soulful blend of musk and creamy sandalwood, sensually sweetened with honey and earthy beeswax and the indolic jasmine. How You Love is tender, soothing, loving, an uncomplicated fragrance, pure and authentic like Sade’s voice.

REMARKABLE PEOPLE by Etat Libre d`Orange – effervescent and indolic and exotic

Inspired by Josephine Baker, the St-Louis-born French dancer, singer, and actress who took Paris in by storm 1925 with her "La Revue Nègre" at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées. Her dancing was erotic and exciting – just like Remarkable People. Tart, citrusy grapefruit along with a fizzy effervescence from a champagne accord launches the fragrance. Cardamom adds a little spicy warmth that leads to a heart of luscious, indolic jasmine that threads an exotic floral dimension through the fragrance. The base is resinous from labdanum and woody from sandalwood. It smells exotic – just as I imagine Josephine Baker was.

SARASSINS by Serge Lutens – lush and indolic and warm

A Lutens exclusive this EDP is all about lush, indolic jasmine. The bergamot/jasmine opening is like putting your face in a big bouquet of jasmine flowers – gorgeous! Soon a note of carnation appears and enhances the floral aspect of jasmine. As it blooms on the skin, whiffs of naphthalene and ink pop up. Musk adds a leathery, animalic, dirty dimension, but before it can get too skanky coumarin and patchouli warm it up, soften the jasmine and give it a touch of warmth at the dry down. Jasmine bliss!

Note Series #19 - JASMINE is listed in our Decant Store. 4 -1ml. decants for $13.00, regular $17.00.