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Sotto la Luna Tuberose – A white flower to love – May 27, 2016


You may have noticed that I’ve been on a white flower exploration for the past few months. There’s something drawing me to these polarizing notes that I’ve avoided for so long, a desire for new and different scent experiences, for fragrant revelations that will take me into new territory. I realize that there’s still so much more to learn about perfume, and who better to learn with than Andy Tauer.

My perfume journey re-booted in 2007 with his L’Air du desert marocain, the fragrance which introduced Andy’s signature “Tauerade” accord – exotic, rich with incense, amber and smoky vanilla - and the fragrance which Luca Turin recently suggested will come to be regarded a modern “classic” scent comparable to the great Guerlains like Shalimar. For the former scientist, self-taught ultra-independent perfumer this must feel like a huge and very humbling compliment.

Tauer’s Sotto la Luna Tuberose has been on my desk for weeks. Released in Fall 2015 release, it was inspired by tuberose, “white flowers blooming under the moon, sotto la luna”. I’ve wanted to experience it the way Andy envisioned it, so I’ve stood firm, patiently waiting for exactly the right weather and time of day before writing about it. Finally, here it is – the air soft and summery warm with perfect humidity, dusk falling and moon rising.

I'll let Andy set the scene (he’s proud of his new creation):

From “TUBEROSE under the moon is an invitation to revisit this white flower and rethink tuberose: brilliantly different – peppery green and beguiling. The natural rendering of the queen of the night’s airy freshness sets this tuberose apart…”

Andy’s Blog Sept 10, 2015 : “What’s it like? Just…. wonderful. Green spicy floral head notes, creamy tuberose, ylang ylang, jasmine and a dash of roses in its heart and a dark rich base featuring tuberose, patchouli and dark ambergris.”

And he worked hard to create it exactly as he envisioned: “More trials…Overall (I just counted in my Excel) it was 27 major trials and some trials that I stopped mixing on the go. Why so many trials there and so little for other scents? I guess it depends on what you want to reach. Maybe it is just luck, too. A happy moment that can’t be planned nor be repeated.”

Sotto la Luna Tuberose is definitely different, and so beautiful. Peppery, green with galbanum and geranium, softly spiced with cinnamon and clove, the tuberose note rises like a strong young goddess from the indigo-blue glass bottle. Almost immediately, the rich Tauerade accord begins to warm and sweeten the tuberose, and already I’m falling in love with Andy’s tuberose vision.

Creamy but fresh and natural, the tuberose blends with heady jasmine, rose, and sweet ylang-ylang into the floral heart, the green galbanum accord weaving around and through the rich white florals, grounding the indolics so that the suffocating heaviness so typical of tuberose fragrances never develops. The  tuberose note continues as patchouli and ambergris base notes wrap the white floral beauty, wafting it through the dry-down in layers of earthy richness.

Sotto la Luna is a green tuberose, a concept that was explored by Bertrand Duchaufour in L’Artisan’s Nuit de Tubereuse. But Andy Tauer’s version is different, much more a soliflore than the hot/cold Nuit de Tubereuse which includes mango, berries, and wood notes. Sotto la Luna Tuberose is tuberose from top to bottom, starting green and peppery, ending with the  unmistakable sweet feminine scent of the white blooms that we all know and love (or hate).

But the magic ingredient is Andy Tauer, and the power of his Tauerade accord which gives Sotto la Luna depth and richness right from the top. Green – yes. Spicy - yes. White flower – yes. Rich complex different wearable beguiling artistic – yes. I love it.

Andy’s Blog Oct 2, 2015 : “And the Tuberose sotto la luna: Not to be missed, under no circumstances. It is good. And unique, mumbles the creator…”

Sotto la Luna Tuberose is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $6.00 for 1 ml.